Vintages Value Selections: May 24th Release

In and around Spring and early Summer, the Vintages division of the LCBO tends to stock a greater number of Southern French and Rhone wines. This is certainly a good practice. As the weather warms and food is more often grilled than braised or baked, I find myself less inclined to partake in the (red) wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Rightly or wrongly, I associate the wines of these regions with sit-down dinners spent gathered around a table in a warm home. Indeed, the same can be said of my beloved Chateauneuf-du-Pape's, which I find irresistible with slow-cooked beef dishes and roasted poultry. Insofar as most of us won't be doing a whole lot of that cooking anytime soon, it strikes me as a perfect time to sample simpler reds with racier acidic structures, and more easy-drinking characteristics. As an added bonus, wines of this type generally won't break the bank.

Domaine de Villemajou Corbieres Boutenac 2005 20.95 (017194)

I have yet to write about the Corbieres appellation on this blog, but not for lack of desire. Unfortunately, it has been a while since Vintages has stocked a quality Corbieres. Well, that is remedied by the release of Gerard Bertrand's Domaine de Vellemajou. Bertrand is one of the best producers in the Languedoc and has built quite the little empire over a selection of terroirs throughout the region. Although some might think that the size of his operation would negatively impact the quality of his wines, this is far from the case. An ex-professional rugby player, Bertrand's wine-making principles are thoroughly French, which is to say quality and terroir-driven. Here we have a Corbieres from the sub-appellation Boutenac. Boutenac is a unique terroir within Corbieres -- like, for example, La Liviniere in the Minervois -- and is known for its gravely soils and old Carignan vines. While Carignan is most often associated with over-produced plonk, with adequate vine-age and as a blending grape, it can offer great concentration and spiciness. Such is the case here, with the 40% Carignan component coming from vines over a hundred years old. The rest of the varietals -- Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre -- are also on the older side, 35-40 years. All in all, this wine shows excellent extract, a nose dominated by cedar with hints of chocolate and a touch of barnyard. I would recommend giving it some air before drinking (about an hour). Although not really considered a wine to age, it is quite possible that the 2005 Villemajou would reward a few years in the cellar. Recommended food pairing: the Vintages site recommends leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic, which is bang on, but lamb chops or flank steak would also work well. Enjoy!

Mas des Bressades Cuvee Excellence Costieres de Nimes 2006 17.95 (708750)


The Costieres de Nimes appellation is home to many hidden gems. Located to the southwest of the Rhone Valley in the country around Nimes, these are quintessentially Southern French wines. Made with the traditional varietals -- Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan -- they often rival the neighbouring wines labeled Cotes-du-Rhone. A characteristic feature of Costieres de Nimes is the presence of a lively acidity and freshness. While far from tart, many of the reds from this appellation have an acidic backbone that makes them excellent with food, particularly of the grilled variety. Although not known for complexity, these wines often burst with dark cherry and black fruit while remaining relatively light in body. The folks at Mas des Bressades claim that this wine can be aged up to ten years. While I don't disagree, I wonder why one would bother. Though it may soften up a bit, it is the very liveliness of a wine like this that makes it so appealing. The spicy scent of licorice is all the better for its youthful wildness. Mas des Bressades is one of the best producers in the Costieres de Nimes and has set quite the standard for others to follow. As the Vintages blurb notes, Robert Parker is a fan of the winery, and his praise is nice reward for a family that has dedicated themselves to principles of quality: low yields, temperature controlled maceration, appropriate cepages, oak-aging when beneficial, etc. This is a wonderful representative of an up and coming appellation that should not be missed. Indeed, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a case! Recommended food pairing: grilled steaks (of all varieties) with ratatouille.

Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas Tradition 2005 24.95 (735779)


The first thing that strikes one upon opening a bottle of Domaine de Font-Sane is its intense nose. Thoroughly floral with obvious notes of lavender, it is an intoxicating scent. I can't stress enough what a value this is at 25 dollars. It certainly rivals many of its more expensive neighbors, including Chateauneufs. Along with the lovely nose, this wine has an impressive finish, offering up flint, dark cherry and licorice. Like Domaine Pallieres, Font-Sane can be considered a cool weather Gigondas. I find that these are the most fragrant, and yet don't suffer any lack of ripeness. I'm not exactly sure why this is, and would stipulate that "cool weather" doesn't mean Burgundian terroir. And yet, these wines have something Burgundian about them. Perhaps it is the delicacy of the floral bouquet. Indeed, the 2004 Font-Sane also featured well-integrated and fine-grain tannins early on in its development, which lent the wine what might be termed, for lack of a better word, a certain femininity. The 2005 is a bit bigger and tannic, but less so than other wines of similar complexity. As such, it is approachable in its youth. But, make no mistake, this is a wine that will improve with age. It is the quintessence of a mid-term ager. Give it three years and the delicacy on the nose will be matched by a velvety texture (or, as some call it, mouth-feel). Buy a few! Recommended food pairing: beef or veal tenderloin, not heavily spiced (including salt) or doused with garlic.










Other great values from the May 24th Release:

Dornier Merlot Stellenbosch 2005 16.95 (694224)

Ortas Tradition Rasteau 2006 15.95 (998716)

Castellani Campomaggio Rosso IGT 2003 20.95 (072371)

Vintages Selection: Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas 2004

With the November 24th Vintages release about a week away, it is a fine time to bring to your attention one of the great values on the way. Although the release itself is not one of the most exciting overall, the availability of Domaine Santa Duc's standard Gigondas cuvee is certainly something to look forward to. Along with Montirius, Domaine la Garrigue, and Domaine les Pallieres, Santa Duc is one of my favourite wines from the region. And I am not alone: Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator have consistently rated their wines in the 90+ range. Whether you are a fan of these reviews or not, they do highlight the consistent quality level of the wine produced at this estate.














Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas 2004 33.95 (#11601)

Having not had the pleasure of visiting Santa Duc, I cannot relate a great deal of first hand information about the producer. I have, however, been to Gigondas (both the appellation and the town), and thought I might share a little bit of information about the terroir. Gigondas is located to the northeast of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and shares a few of the same characteristics: most notably the stony soil and the lengthy exposure to the sun. But unlike the majority of vineyards in its more famous cousin, many vines in Gigondas are planted on slopes. The wines of this region are often referred to as 'rustic,' and this accurately describes the landscape as well. One need only look at the Dentelles de Montmirail that overlook many of the vineyards, to gain a grasp of how rocky the region is.














The cuvee for Santa Duc's standard bottling of Gigondas is 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 5% Cinsault, which is quite standard for the appellation. One of the noteworthy aspects of this blend, however, is that the grapes are sourced from a number of different vineyards throughout the commune. The producer believes that this ensures consistency from vintage to vintage, but it also helps to provide balance in a given year as well. Five of these vineyards are based on quaternary red clay stony soils -- “Hautes Garrigues”, “Carbonnieres”, “Rocassieres”, “Santa Duc”, and “Pailleroudas” – while the “Goujard et Plane” vineyard lies on calcarous clay soil. Blending of this nature is an excellent way of expressing the terroir of the appellation, rather than just a single vineyard.















The high percentage of Grenache in the blend leads to concentrated notes of red and blue fruits that give the impression of sweetness. And like many of the best wines from the Southern Rhone, there is a distinct stoniness on the palette. More importantly, perhaps, is the fact that the tannins in this wine are not overpowering, meaning it can certainly be enjoyed in its youth. Having said that, this wine is a perfect candidate for mid-term cellaring, and will no doubt improve with five or so years of aging. At less than 35 dollars, the quality-to-price-ratio of this offering is nothing short of excellent. Drink up!

Please visit Santa Duc's website for additional information (www.santaduc.fr).