Chateau de Monbazillac 2001 23.95 (#31617)
Located on the left bank of the Dordogne river immediately south of Bergerac, Monbazillac is an appellation with a long tradition of making sweet white wine. Although less known than Sauternes and Barsac, the wines of Monbazillac are made in much the same style. Indeed, they are often referred to as 'poor man's' Sauternes. Being a poor man myself, it is nice to have the opportunity to try a wine of this type without forgoing food for the week.
The varietals for this wine are Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle, the last of which is particularly successful in this region. The most interesting aspect of these wines is not, however, the varietals themselves, but rather what happens to them prior to being picked. Due to the appellation's geographic location, there are often morning mists followed by warm and sunny afternoons throughout autumn. These conditions are perfect for the development of Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. While this fungus may lead the grapes to look downright disgusting, the resulting wine can be profound. Read a few reviews of Chateau d'Yquem -- the famous wine from Sauternes -- and you will get an idea of just how phenomenal an experience botrytized wine can be.
Although there are a number processes that take place when noble rot affects grapes, the most important are as follows: the grape loses more than half of its water content as it shrivels into something more akin to a raisin, the sugar becomes concentrated, and the phenolics in the grape skins are broken down resulting in the release of the tannins into the juice. There are thus a variety of viticultural strategies that must be employed to extract wine from these severely dehydrated grapes. Due to the fact that not all grapes are affected by noble rot at the same rate, numerous passages through the vineyard must be made to ensure consistency. Once picked, the grapes must also be pressed numerous times to ensure that the little remaining juice can be extracted. Not only that, the fermentation proceeds very slowly: the high sugar levels and the presence of antibiotics like botryticine severely inhibit the yeasts. All this to say, making these wines is an expensive prospect. When one also considers that the whole process can be undermined by uncooperative weather conditions, the fact that botrytized wines are often exorbitantly priced makes a good deal of sense.
Chateau de Monbezillac, as the name indicates, is the largest producer in the appellation. A gorgeous estate that features a 16th century castle, much about about this producer recalls the better known chateaus in Barsac. And although 2001 was not one of their best vintages, it was by no means a disaster either. More than anything, it represents a great opportunity to sample a special and rare style of wine at a reasonable price. It comes in a 500ml size, which is the perfect amount to enjoy with a selection of strong cheeses, particularly those of the blue variety. It would also pair well with foie gras should you prefer to serve it with a first course. Either way, you're in for a treat.
As a final note, botrytized wines are known for their ability to age for extremely long periods of time, generally progressing to saturated honey and nut flavours. Although you won't get the 100 some odd years out of this that you would from a d'Yquem, if you have the patience, it would surely reward 15-20 years.
For further information on noble rot, please see Janice Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wine, from which much of this entry is culled.
