Vintages Selection: Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Well, it has been some time since I’ve updated, no doubt resulting in the loss of readers to whom this little apologetic preamble might have mattered. This blog tapered off and ceased to be updated for simple reasons: it was too much work, and I had too much other work. But, in the months that have passed, I found myself wanting to contribute a little here and there, and have now decided that the solution to the problem is to pare down some of the entries. I’ll still wax on about certain wines that I’m particularly taken by, but I’d also like to devote shorter entries to great values. So, for the ten of you out there who will read this – all friends and family, no less – I'll return with an entry on my all-time favorite wine, which is being released in limited quantities May 10th.

Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 67.95 (951475)

I’ve already said so much about Chateauneuf-du-Pape, about the wonderful 2005 vintage, and about this unique and fascinating terroir, but I remain compelled to fawn over the wine in question because, quite simply, I believe it to be one of the best values in fine French wine. While I understand that this may seem strange and that 70 dollars is a whopping amount for a bottle of wine, those who have tried it will know that it is vastly superior to what you get for the same price in Bourdeaux or Burgundy. With wine from those regions, one could spend twice as much and still not come close to the quality level of Vieux Telegraphe. For me, it is the essence of Provence in a bottle.

As has been noted elsewhere on these pages, I am a huge fan of Chateau Beaucastel, another leading wine of the appellation. What makes Beaucastel so enticing is the high presence of Mourvedre, a late-ripening grape with gamey notes. Taking nothing away from Beaucastel, what makes Vieux Telegraphe, is the Grenache. It is, perhaps, the loveliest Grenache-dominated wine anywhere in the world. Grenache is, of course, often derided for its lack of complexity and not thought to be on par with other noble varietals. This is, to some extent, a fair criticism, and the reason that virtually all Chateauneuf is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. But when one has 65 year-old Grenache vines, it makes sense to show their fruit off a little. As such, Vieux Telelgraphe is usually comprised of about 65% Grenache (with roughly equal parts of the aforementioned Syrah and Mourvedre rounding out the blend). It is this high percentage of Grenache that lends the wine some of the most intense and intoxicating kirsch (cherry) flavors I’ve ever tasted. There is a sweetness to Vieux Telegraphe that speaks to the sun-drenched vineyards of the south of France. This is a wine made with grapes that have reached their maximum ripeness and concentration. This, however, is not so rare that it would make for a special wine on its own. There is a second characteristic of a good Vieux Telegraphe that lies underneath the cherry: stoniness.

I know that I’m repeating myself by celebrating the stoniness of a Chateauneuf yet again, but it is necessary to stress with Vieux Telegraphe because it is really the stoniest wine I’ve tasted. And, for those of you who haven’t read my other entries, I’m not referring to the type of minerality that one might get in a good Riesling; this is a warm stoniness that can draw the drinker back to the landscape from which the wine originated. Upon opening a bottle of 2003 Vieux Telegraphe with my wife, the two of us were momentarily transported back to our honeymoon spent in and around Chateauneuf-du-Pape. As improbable as it might seem, all the smells of the rugged landscape of Provence – particularly garrigue – seem to manage their way into Vieux Telegraphe.

Pairing this wine with food should be relatively straightforward. One must, however, take into consideration its age and evolution. If opening this wine young, it is imperative to aerate (decant) it for at least an hour, preferably two. Although it is not reported to be “closed” at present, giving it ample air would, no doubt, help to rouse some of the underlying complexity. After aerating, two possible pairings in the wine’s youth might be: braised beef dishes (in wine-based sauces) or duck confit (the ample fat balancing the youthful tannins). As the wine ages and softens a bit, I think an ample-sized veal chop would be lovely, but even a spice-rubbed (eg. rosemary, thyme, etc.) roasted chicken would do it justice.

If you’re a buyer of New World wines or primarily Bordeaux and Burgundy, I urge you to buy at least one Vieux Telegraphe. It may change the way you conceive of the Rhone Valley and how you buy wines in general. As a final note, both Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) and James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) rate the 2005 Vieux Telegraph 95 points, obviously within "outstanding" range.

For more information about Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe please consult the following sources:
www.thewinedoctor.com, www.vignoblesbrunier.fr, and Kermit Lynch's Adventures On the Wine Route.

Vintages Selection: E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003

One of the wines not to be found on the Vintages web listing of the November 24th release that nevertheless deserves special attention is the E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003. This is, however, once again a rather expensive wine. Still, when one knows a little about Cote-Rotie, not only do the prices of the wines from the appellation make sense, it becomes very tempting to throw down the cash for a memorable drinking experience.
















E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003 81.95 (#352534)

Sometimes the mere translation of the name of a wine is extremely informative, and such is the case with Cote-Rotie: the "roasted slope." As the pictures below illustrate, the vines of Cote-Rotie are planted on some of the steepest slopes of the Rhone Valley. Indeed, all the best wine of the northern Rhone comes from extremely steep vineyards, be it Hermitage, Cornas, or even high quality St. Joseph. There are a variety of reasons for this, all of which demonstrate the importance of terroir. Along with the wines of Burgundy, those of the northern Rhone best express the sense of the place from which they derive. Part of this results from the fact that, as in Burgundy, the authorized varietals are severely restricted. Throughout the northern Rhone, Sryah is permitted for reds and Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier (which also appears in small amounts in certain red blends) are permitted for whites. The lack of major blending makes it a bit easier to identify the subtle and not so subtle differences from one vineyard to another, which is nothing short of fascinating.





























Above is the "blonde" vineyard and below is the "brune," both of which comprise the pinnacle of Cote-Rotie's terroir. Vintner's will often note the different characteristics each slope gives to its wines. In this case, the wine is a blend of grapes from both slopes. Although they are planted with the same Syrah clone, blending grapes from the two can help to achieve better balance and structure than from a cuvee comprised of grapes from just one. Despite the high price of this wine, these are not the absolute premium grapes of the two slopes. For Guigal's offerings, the best grapes go into the La Ladonne, La Mouline, and La Turque bottlings, all of which are single vineyard expressions. These wines are, however, all $500+ and very rare. The brune and blonde blend gives the enthusiast the chance to sample Cote-Rotie at a price that is at least slightly more realistic.





























Guigal's Cote-Roties are the best known, and for good reason: the recognition of the wine as some of the finest in the world is the result of much of his dedication to endorsing it. And yet, not everyone is a fan of his vinification practices. Unlike much of the wine of the Rhone Valley, Guigal's spends a great deal of time in new oak barrels. This wine, for example, is matured in oak for at least 2 years before being bottled. Not everyone is a fan of such a practice, and many have accused Guigal of making wines for the less traditionally oriented North American audience. Perhaps this is so, but nevertheless his wines are invariably rated highly by all international wine publications. Moreover, the pure strength of a wine like Cote-Rotie seems to demand at least some time in oak. And please rest assured, Guigal's Cote-Rotie tastes nothing like the cheap oak and vanilla bombs that have become so popular with many of those with less developed palettes (yes, I am referring to Yellow Tail here...).
















As far as tasting notes go, Parker has noted that the 2003 is the finest example of this bottling. Some of the characteristics he identifies are "cassis, mocha, espresso, bacon fat, black olives, and underbrush." Many of these flavours and aromas are referred to as masculine, and Cote-Roties are certainly 'big' wines, but like classified growth Bordeaux, they give nothing away in terms of complexity and range. So, yes, it is 90 dollars, but it just might be worth it. Make it a special occasion wine to celebrate with. I would strongly recommend allowing this some cellar time, but if you simply can't wait, make sure to pair it with foods that have ample flavour and fat. For my money, a high quality rib-eye steak would be wonderful, but duck confit or even foie gras would also make great matches. Enjoy!

Vintages Selection: Chateau de Beaucastel 2005

Although the November 10th Vintages release highlights the 2005 crop of Burgundies, for this first entry, it seems more appropriate to focus on a different region. Having visited Chateauneuf-du-Pape this summer, the release of the 2005 Chateau de Beaucastel is the perfect opportunity to showcase the nature and purpose of this blog. Not only is Beaucastel one of the great representatives of the appellation, having actually visited the winery, I am in a decent position to provide some information about this wonderful estate. Although I will almost always choose wines at a lower price point, every once in while there will be special exceptions.















Chateau de Beaucastel 2005 91.95 (#711317)

Along with Vieux Telelgraphe, Chateau Rayas, Domaine de la Janasse (to name only a few on a growing list), Beaucastel is generally considered to be one of the top estates in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation with one of the oldest wine making traditions. As of 1344, 285 hectares of the appellation now known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape were already under vine. Contrary to common belief, these plantings had little to do with the arrival of the Papacy in Avignon in 1305 and likely far preceded this date. Some have speculated that it was the Greeks who planted the first vineyards in this region, and that the Romans merely extended these plantings. What is certain, however, is that the later arrival of the Popes -- and their taste for the local wine -- led to far wider planting in the region. They are primarily responsible for both the rise of the region and its tradition of quality.

There are a variety of factors that make Chateauneuf-du-Pape an excellent place to make wine. But, to put it succinctly, it is a grand terroir. The English language does not, unfortunately, have an adequate word to translate terroir, which refers to the combination of soil, weather, sun exposure, slope and other natural characteristics that define the wine of not only a particular region, but even specific vineyards. The basic defining features of Chateauneuf's terroir are the stony soil (referred to as the galets or cailloux), the extensive exposure to the Provencal sun, and the presence of the Mistral, the brisk wind from the north that helps to protect the vineyards from insect pests. While no one aspect of a terroir can be privileged above another, the function of the galets is perhaps the most interesting: warmed by the sun throughout the day, these stones retain heat into the night and help the vines mature. One of the unique aspects of a good Chateauneuf is the presence of a stony, flint-like flavour. As another producer's name so aptly puts it, the wines of this region are "the blood of the stones" (Les Sang des Cailloux).














Although not one of the oldest estates, Beaucastel is by no means young. It's modern roots can be traced to 1909 when Pierre Tramier bought the estate and proceeded to pass it on to his son-in-law Pierre Perrin. It was, however, under the supervision of his brother, Jacques Perrin, that the estate flourished into one of best in the region. With his death in 1978, his sons Jean Pierre and Francois have taken over the estate. You may, I should note, recognize the Perrin name because of the many other wines they produce throughout the Southern Rhone, most of which are of very high quality (the Vacqueyras is particularly wonderful). Located at the northeast region of the appellation, as the pictures show, Beaucastel's vineyards are marked by the presence of the galets and their exposure to the elements, particularly the sun and wind. There are, however, aspects of the wine produced here that are unique to this estate.














There are thirteen permitted grape varietals in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (fourteen if one counts grenache noir and blanc as separate). For red blends, the most common and important are Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. Unlike other estates, Beaucastel actually includes all thirteen varietals in its cuvees. More importantly still, and again unlike most other estates, there is a much higher portion of Mourvedre in Beaucastel. Indeed, the super cuvee, Hommage a Jacques Perrin, which is only made in particularly good years, sees sixty percent or more Mourvedre. The standard bottling is usually a blend of 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 5% Cinsault and the remaining varieties in small portions. Many believe that Beaucastel is defined by animalistic characteristics, and these are most likely the result of the high percentage of Mourvedre (although some speculate it is the presence of Brettanomyces, a yeast in the vineyards and winery, that leads to these flavours) . It is not uncommon for wine critics to list "beef blood" in their tasting notes of aged Beaucastels. While this may sound anything but savory, my own tasting of the 1990 vintage can confirm not only the presence of this flavour and scent, but its desirability. At their best, Beaucastels are a truly visceral experience.















2005 was an excellent vintage in the Southern Rhone. Robert Parker has rated it a 95, the highest rating since 2001's 96. One must, however, show a degree of caution in such good vintages. Being wines meant for long term cellaring, the 2005 Beaucastel will absolutely benefit from, if not require, 5-7 years of bottle age. Having said that, this would be an excellent holiday gift for the wine lover on your list. For those with a greater degree of financial freedom than myself, buying a few of these would allow for the possibility of charting the wine's development over the years.

For those unwilling to make the financial commitment to this wine, an excellent alternative is the Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone 2004 (Vintages 29.95 #48884). Made from vineyards immediately north of those designated Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this wine is affectionately referred to as 'baby Beaucastel.' The blend and vinification is virtually identical to its big brother. It is an excellent value, but quantities are limited.

For Parker's review of these wines and Vintages quantity information, please visit their website at vintages.com.

The following websites were helpful in the composition of this entry:

www.beaucastel.com
www.chateauneuf.dk/en/front.htm
www.thewinedoctor.com