Vintages Selection: Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Well, it has been some time since I’ve updated, no doubt resulting in the loss of readers to whom this little apologetic preamble might have mattered. This blog tapered off and ceased to be updated for simple reasons: it was too much work, and I had too much other work. But, in the months that have passed, I found myself wanting to contribute a little here and there, and have now decided that the solution to the problem is to pare down some of the entries. I’ll still wax on about certain wines that I’m particularly taken by, but I’d also like to devote shorter entries to great values. So, for the ten of you out there who will read this – all friends and family, no less – I'll return with an entry on my all-time favorite wine, which is being released in limited quantities May 10th.

Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 67.95 (951475)

I’ve already said so much about Chateauneuf-du-Pape, about the wonderful 2005 vintage, and about this unique and fascinating terroir, but I remain compelled to fawn over the wine in question because, quite simply, I believe it to be one of the best values in fine French wine. While I understand that this may seem strange and that 70 dollars is a whopping amount for a bottle of wine, those who have tried it will know that it is vastly superior to what you get for the same price in Bourdeaux or Burgundy. With wine from those regions, one could spend twice as much and still not come close to the quality level of Vieux Telegraphe. For me, it is the essence of Provence in a bottle.

As has been noted elsewhere on these pages, I am a huge fan of Chateau Beaucastel, another leading wine of the appellation. What makes Beaucastel so enticing is the high presence of Mourvedre, a late-ripening grape with gamey notes. Taking nothing away from Beaucastel, what makes Vieux Telegraphe, is the Grenache. It is, perhaps, the loveliest Grenache-dominated wine anywhere in the world. Grenache is, of course, often derided for its lack of complexity and not thought to be on par with other noble varietals. This is, to some extent, a fair criticism, and the reason that virtually all Chateauneuf is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. But when one has 65 year-old Grenache vines, it makes sense to show their fruit off a little. As such, Vieux Telelgraphe is usually comprised of about 65% Grenache (with roughly equal parts of the aforementioned Syrah and Mourvedre rounding out the blend). It is this high percentage of Grenache that lends the wine some of the most intense and intoxicating kirsch (cherry) flavors I’ve ever tasted. There is a sweetness to Vieux Telegraphe that speaks to the sun-drenched vineyards of the south of France. This is a wine made with grapes that have reached their maximum ripeness and concentration. This, however, is not so rare that it would make for a special wine on its own. There is a second characteristic of a good Vieux Telegraphe that lies underneath the cherry: stoniness.

I know that I’m repeating myself by celebrating the stoniness of a Chateauneuf yet again, but it is necessary to stress with Vieux Telegraphe because it is really the stoniest wine I’ve tasted. And, for those of you who haven’t read my other entries, I’m not referring to the type of minerality that one might get in a good Riesling; this is a warm stoniness that can draw the drinker back to the landscape from which the wine originated. Upon opening a bottle of 2003 Vieux Telegraphe with my wife, the two of us were momentarily transported back to our honeymoon spent in and around Chateauneuf-du-Pape. As improbable as it might seem, all the smells of the rugged landscape of Provence – particularly garrigue – seem to manage their way into Vieux Telegraphe.

Pairing this wine with food should be relatively straightforward. One must, however, take into consideration its age and evolution. If opening this wine young, it is imperative to aerate (decant) it for at least an hour, preferably two. Although it is not reported to be “closed” at present, giving it ample air would, no doubt, help to rouse some of the underlying complexity. After aerating, two possible pairings in the wine’s youth might be: braised beef dishes (in wine-based sauces) or duck confit (the ample fat balancing the youthful tannins). As the wine ages and softens a bit, I think an ample-sized veal chop would be lovely, but even a spice-rubbed (eg. rosemary, thyme, etc.) roasted chicken would do it justice.

If you’re a buyer of New World wines or primarily Bordeaux and Burgundy, I urge you to buy at least one Vieux Telegraphe. It may change the way you conceive of the Rhone Valley and how you buy wines in general. As a final note, both Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) and James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) rate the 2005 Vieux Telegraph 95 points, obviously within "outstanding" range.

For more information about Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe please consult the following sources:
www.thewinedoctor.com, www.vignoblesbrunier.fr, and Kermit Lynch's Adventures On the Wine Route.