Vintages Value Selections: May 10th Release

With the diligence that accompanies renewed commitment, I'm following up my post on Vieux Telelgraphe -- which I labeled a great value -- with one on values of a different type: that of the under 20 dollar variety. In what I hope to be a continued effort, I'd like to focus a short entry on three wines from the May 10th release that not only offer great bang for the buck, but should taste delicious as well.

Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2007 15.95 (739474)

Before you disregard this wine because of its color, ask yourself if you even know what Rosé is? Contrary to a popular and misinformed claim, these wines almost never have anything to do with the blending of red and white wines. In fact, it would be more accurate to say that they are created through a combination of red and white wine-making techniques. Wine of this type gets its pink color from a short maceration with the skins -- usually 8-12 hours -- followed by the separation of the juice from the skins, at which time the fermentation process proceeds as it would with white wine. This contact with the skins can, in certain cases, increase the complexity of the wine, but perhaps the most important aspect of the fermentation process is that the wines remain dry. And, in the case of Tavel, bone dry. Made with Grenache Noir, Tavel originates from the town of the same name on the Left bank of the Rhone River. Along with the appellation of Bandol in Provence, Tavel is known for producing some of the best Rosé in the world. Enjoy this wine outdoors as the weather hints at the summer months to come. Recommended food pairing: grilled pork tenderloin.


Tomero Malbec Mendoza 2005 12.75 (057943)

I've never been a fan of the Malbec that originates from the Cahors appellation in the Southwest of France (below Bordeaux). I find most of these wines overly tannic and inky without the reward of fruit that one might expect. But, to resist writing off the grape altogether, I would recommend much of the Malbec from the Mendoza region in Argentina. Formerly a blending grape in Bordeaux, Malbec was introduced to Argentina around 1868 by Michel Pouget, where it produces a softer wine without the overpowering tannins. It does, however, retain its inky hue and offers what wine critics often refer to as "grip." This would be a great way to sample the varietal if you're unfamiliar with it. Not only is it inexpensive, it has also received a favorable rating of 88 from Stephen Tanzer (International Wine Cellar). I particularly like this excerpt from his tasting notes: "Juicy, tightly wound and light on its feet despite hinting at liqueur-like warmth." A failed poet, no doubt. Recommended food pairing: grilled (preferably rare) flank steak.


Sasyr Sangiovese/Sryah IGT 2005 17.95 (068510)

Many of you have, I'm sure, heard the designation "supertuscan." Perhaps some of you wondered precisely what the term meant, what with its grandiose air and all. Well, technically speaking, it is reserved for a group of wines that were first made in and around the early 1980s. They controversially broke with traditional Tuscan wine-making laws in the pursuit of producing finer wine through the introduction of French varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Now days, however, defining which wines make the cut and which don't is a fool's errand. Take, for instance, the wine in question. It could be said that it is one of the many progeny of the Tuscan wine revolution. Although not uber expensive -- like, say, Tignanello or Sassicaia -- it also combines a traditional French varietal, Syrah, with the traditional Tuscan grape Sangiovese. It is for this reason that it is designated an IGT wine. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, and it is used to differentiate these wines from other, more traditional designations (DOC's) like Chianti and Chianti Classico. But, as even a rough translation should discover, it gestures to the fact that the wine should be typical or indicative of the region from which it originates. Originally a mark of low quality wines (as with the French Vin de Pays d'Oc), in today's wine market IGT often means anything but. While there is sometimes a risk in buying IGT wines -- there are, after all, so many on the market with so little accompanying information -- James Suckling's Wine Spectator rating of 88 is indicative of high quality for a relatively low price. With the ample Sangiovese in the blend, this wine should be quite food friendly, particularly with red meats. Recommended food pairing: braised oxtail parpadelle in a tomato-based sauce.