E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003 81.95 (#352534)
Sometimes the mere translation of the name of a wine is extremely informative, and such is the case with Cote-Rotie: the "roasted slope." As the pictures below illustrate, the vines of Cote-Rotie are planted on some of the steepest slopes of the Rhone Valley. Indeed, all the best wine of the northern Rhone comes from extremely steep vineyards, be it Hermitage, Cornas, or even high quality St. Joseph. There are a variety of reasons for this, all of which demonstrate the importance of terroir. Along with the wines of Burgundy, those of the northern Rhone best express the sense of the place from which they derive. Part of this results from the fact that, as in Burgundy, the authorized varietals are severely restricted. Throughout the northern Rhone, Sryah is permitted for reds and Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier (which also appears in small amounts in certain red blends) are permitted for whites. The lack of major blending makes it a bit easier to identify the subtle and not so subtle differences from one vineyard to another, which is nothing short of fascinating.
Above is the "blonde" vineyard and below is the "brune," both of which comprise the pinnacle of Cote-Rotie's terroir. Vintner's will often note the different characteristics each slope gives to its wines. In this case, the wine is a blend of grapes from both slopes. Although they are planted with the same Syrah clone, blending grapes from the two can help to achieve better balance and structure than from a cuvee comprised of grapes from just one. Despite the high price of this wine, these are not the absolute premium grapes of the two slopes. For Guigal's offerings, the best grapes go into the La Ladonne, La Mouline, and La Turque bottlings, all of which are single vineyard expressions. These wines are, however, all $500+ and very rare. The brune and blonde blend gives the enthusiast the chance to sample Cote-Rotie at a price that is at least slightly more realistic.
Guigal's Cote-Roties are the best known, and for good reason: the recognition of the wine as some of the finest in the world is the result of much of his dedication to endorsing it. And yet, not everyone is a fan of his vinification practices. Unlike much of the wine of the Rhone Valley, Guigal's spends a great deal of time in new oak barrels. This wine, for example, is matured in oak for at least 2 years before being bottled. Not everyone is a fan of such a practice, and many have accused Guigal of making wines for the less traditionally oriented North American audience. Perhaps this is so, but nevertheless his wines are invariably rated highly by all international wine publications. Moreover, the pure strength of a wine like Cote-Rotie seems to demand at least some time in oak. And please rest assured, Guigal's Cote-Rotie tastes nothing like the cheap oak and vanilla bombs that have become so popular with many of those with less developed palettes (yes, I am referring to Yellow Tail here...).
As far as tasting notes go, Parker has noted that the 2003 is the finest example of this bottling. Some of the characteristics he identifies are "cassis, mocha, espresso, bacon fat, black olives, and underbrush." Many of these flavours and aromas are referred to as masculine, and Cote-Roties are certainly 'big' wines, but like classified growth Bordeaux, they give nothing away in terms of complexity and range. So, yes, it is 90 dollars, but it just might be worth it. Make it a special occasion wine to celebrate with. I would strongly recommend allowing this some cellar time, but if you simply can't wait, make sure to pair it with foods that have ample flavour and fat. For my money, a high quality rib-eye steak would be wonderful, but duck confit or even foie gras would also make great matches. Enjoy!
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