Although the November 10th Vintages release highlights the 2005 crop of Burgundies, for this first entry, it seems more appropriate to focus on a different region. Having visited Chateauneuf-du-Pape this summer, the release of the 2005 Chateau de Beaucastel is the perfect opportunity to showcase the nature and purpose of this blog. Not only is Beaucastel one of the great representatives of the appellation, having actually visited the winery, I am in a decent position to provide some information about this wonderful estate. Although I will almost always choose wines at a lower price point, every once in while there will be special exceptions.
Chateau de Beaucastel 2005 91.95 (#711317)
Along with Vieux Telelgraphe, Chateau Rayas, Domaine de la Janasse (to name only a few on a growing list), Beaucastel is generally considered to be one of the top estates in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation with one of the oldest wine making traditions. As of 1344, 285 hectares of the appellation now known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape were already under vine. Contrary to common belief, these plantings had little to do with the arrival of the Papacy in Avignon in 1305 and likely far preceded this date. Some have speculated that it was the Greeks who planted the first vineyards in this region, and that the Romans merely extended these plantings. What is certain, however, is that the later arrival of the Popes -- and their taste for the local wine -- led to far wider planting in the region. They are primarily responsible for both the rise of the region and its tradition of quality.
There are a variety of factors that make Chateauneuf-du-Pape an excellent place to make wine. But, to put it succinctly, it is a
grand terroir. The English language does not, unfortunately, have an adequate word to translate
terroir, which refers to the combination of soil, weather, sun exposure, slope and other natural characteristics that define the wine of not only a particular region, but even specific vineyards. The basic defining features of Chateauneuf's
terroir are the stony soil (referred to as the
galets or
cailloux), the extensive exposure to the Provencal sun, and the presence of the
Mistral, the brisk wind from the north that helps to protect the vineyards from insect pests. While no one aspect of a
terroir can be privileged above another, the function of the
galets is perhaps the most interesting: warmed by the sun throughout the day, these stones retain heat into the night and help the vines mature. One of the unique aspects of a good Chateauneuf is the presence of a stony, flint-like flavour. As another producer's name so aptly puts it, the wines of this region are "the blood of the stones" (Les Sang des Cailloux).
Although not one of the oldest estates, Beaucastel is by no means young. It's modern roots can be traced to 1909 when Pierre Tramier bought the estate and proceeded to pass it on to his son-in-law Pierre Perrin. It was, however, under the supervision of his brother, Jacques Perrin, that the estate flourished into one of best in the region. With his death in 1978, his sons Jean Pierre and Francois have taken over the estate. You may, I should note, recognize the Perrin name because of the many other wines they produce throughout the Southern Rhone, most of which are of very high quality (the Vacqueyras is particularly wonderful). Located at the northeast region of the appellation, as the pictures show, Beaucastel's vineyards are marked by the presence of the
galets and their exposure to the elements, particularly the sun and wind. There are, however, aspects of the wine produced here that are unique to this estate.
There are thirteen permitted grape varietals in Chateauneuf-du-Pape (fourteen if one counts grenache noir and blanc as separate). For red blends, the most common and important are Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. Unlike other estates, Beaucastel actually includes all thirteen varietals in its cuvees. More importantly still, and again unlike most other estates, there is a much higher portion of Mourvedre in Beaucastel. Indeed, the super cuvee, Hommage a Jacques Perrin, which is only made in particularly good years, sees sixty percent or more Mourvedre. The standard bottling is usually a blend of 30% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 5% Cinsault and the remaining varieties in small portions. Many believe that Beaucastel is defined by animalistic characteristics, and these are most likely the result of the high percentage of Mourvedre (although some speculate it is the presence of Brettanomyces, a yeast in the vineyards and winery, that leads to these flavours) . It is not uncommon for wine critics to list "beef blood" in their tasting notes of aged Beaucastels. While this may sound anything but savory, my own tasting of the 1990 vintage can confirm not only the presence of this flavour and scent, but its desirability. At their best, Beaucastels are a truly visceral experience.
2005 was an excellent vintage in the Southern Rhone. Robert Parker has rated it a 95, the highest rating since 2001's 96. One must, however, show a degree of caution in such good vintages. Being wines meant for long term cellaring, the 2005 Beaucastel will absolutely benefit from, if not require, 5-7 years of bottle age. Having said that, this would be an excellent holiday gift for the wine lover on your list. For those with a greater degree of financial freedom than myself, buying a few of these would allow for the possibility of charting the wine's development over the years.
For those unwilling to make the financial commitment to this wine, an excellent alternative is the Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone 2004 (Vintages 29.95 #48884). Made from vineyards immediately north of those designated Chateauneuf-du-Pape, this wine is affectionately referred to as 'baby Beaucastel.' The blend and vinification is virtually identical to its big brother. It is an excellent value, but quantities are limited.
For Parker's review of these wines and Vintages quantity information, please visit their website at vintages.com.
The following websites were helpful in the composition of this entry:
www.beaucastel.com
www.chateauneuf.dk/en/front.htm
www.thewinedoctor.com
