Vintages Value Selections: May 24th Release

In and around Spring and early Summer, the Vintages division of the LCBO tends to stock a greater number of Southern French and Rhone wines. This is certainly a good practice. As the weather warms and food is more often grilled than braised or baked, I find myself less inclined to partake in the (red) wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Rightly or wrongly, I associate the wines of these regions with sit-down dinners spent gathered around a table in a warm home. Indeed, the same can be said of my beloved Chateauneuf-du-Pape's, which I find irresistible with slow-cooked beef dishes and roasted poultry. Insofar as most of us won't be doing a whole lot of that cooking anytime soon, it strikes me as a perfect time to sample simpler reds with racier acidic structures, and more easy-drinking characteristics. As an added bonus, wines of this type generally won't break the bank.

Domaine de Villemajou Corbieres Boutenac 2005 20.95 (017194)

I have yet to write about the Corbieres appellation on this blog, but not for lack of desire. Unfortunately, it has been a while since Vintages has stocked a quality Corbieres. Well, that is remedied by the release of Gerard Bertrand's Domaine de Vellemajou. Bertrand is one of the best producers in the Languedoc and has built quite the little empire over a selection of terroirs throughout the region. Although some might think that the size of his operation would negatively impact the quality of his wines, this is far from the case. An ex-professional rugby player, Bertrand's wine-making principles are thoroughly French, which is to say quality and terroir-driven. Here we have a Corbieres from the sub-appellation Boutenac. Boutenac is a unique terroir within Corbieres -- like, for example, La Liviniere in the Minervois -- and is known for its gravely soils and old Carignan vines. While Carignan is most often associated with over-produced plonk, with adequate vine-age and as a blending grape, it can offer great concentration and spiciness. Such is the case here, with the 40% Carignan component coming from vines over a hundred years old. The rest of the varietals -- Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre -- are also on the older side, 35-40 years. All in all, this wine shows excellent extract, a nose dominated by cedar with hints of chocolate and a touch of barnyard. I would recommend giving it some air before drinking (about an hour). Although not really considered a wine to age, it is quite possible that the 2005 Villemajou would reward a few years in the cellar. Recommended food pairing: the Vintages site recommends leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic, which is bang on, but lamb chops or flank steak would also work well. Enjoy!

Mas des Bressades Cuvee Excellence Costieres de Nimes 2006 17.95 (708750)


The Costieres de Nimes appellation is home to many hidden gems. Located to the southwest of the Rhone Valley in the country around Nimes, these are quintessentially Southern French wines. Made with the traditional varietals -- Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan -- they often rival the neighbouring wines labeled Cotes-du-Rhone. A characteristic feature of Costieres de Nimes is the presence of a lively acidity and freshness. While far from tart, many of the reds from this appellation have an acidic backbone that makes them excellent with food, particularly of the grilled variety. Although not known for complexity, these wines often burst with dark cherry and black fruit while remaining relatively light in body. The folks at Mas des Bressades claim that this wine can be aged up to ten years. While I don't disagree, I wonder why one would bother. Though it may soften up a bit, it is the very liveliness of a wine like this that makes it so appealing. The spicy scent of licorice is all the better for its youthful wildness. Mas des Bressades is one of the best producers in the Costieres de Nimes and has set quite the standard for others to follow. As the Vintages blurb notes, Robert Parker is a fan of the winery, and his praise is nice reward for a family that has dedicated themselves to principles of quality: low yields, temperature controlled maceration, appropriate cepages, oak-aging when beneficial, etc. This is a wonderful representative of an up and coming appellation that should not be missed. Indeed, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a case! Recommended food pairing: grilled steaks (of all varieties) with ratatouille.

Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas Tradition 2005 24.95 (735779)


The first thing that strikes one upon opening a bottle of Domaine de Font-Sane is its intense nose. Thoroughly floral with obvious notes of lavender, it is an intoxicating scent. I can't stress enough what a value this is at 25 dollars. It certainly rivals many of its more expensive neighbors, including Chateauneufs. Along with the lovely nose, this wine has an impressive finish, offering up flint, dark cherry and licorice. Like Domaine Pallieres, Font-Sane can be considered a cool weather Gigondas. I find that these are the most fragrant, and yet don't suffer any lack of ripeness. I'm not exactly sure why this is, and would stipulate that "cool weather" doesn't mean Burgundian terroir. And yet, these wines have something Burgundian about them. Perhaps it is the delicacy of the floral bouquet. Indeed, the 2004 Font-Sane also featured well-integrated and fine-grain tannins early on in its development, which lent the wine what might be termed, for lack of a better word, a certain femininity. The 2005 is a bit bigger and tannic, but less so than other wines of similar complexity. As such, it is approachable in its youth. But, make no mistake, this is a wine that will improve with age. It is the quintessence of a mid-term ager. Give it three years and the delicacy on the nose will be matched by a velvety texture (or, as some call it, mouth-feel). Buy a few! Recommended food pairing: beef or veal tenderloin, not heavily spiced (including salt) or doused with garlic.










Other great values from the May 24th Release:

Dornier Merlot Stellenbosch 2005 16.95 (694224)

Ortas Tradition Rasteau 2006 15.95 (998716)

Castellani Campomaggio Rosso IGT 2003 20.95 (072371)

Vintages Value Selections: May 10th Release

With the diligence that accompanies renewed commitment, I'm following up my post on Vieux Telelgraphe -- which I labeled a great value -- with one on values of a different type: that of the under 20 dollar variety. In what I hope to be a continued effort, I'd like to focus a short entry on three wines from the May 10th release that not only offer great bang for the buck, but should taste delicious as well.

Domaine des Carteresses Tavel 2007 15.95 (739474)

Before you disregard this wine because of its color, ask yourself if you even know what Rosé is? Contrary to a popular and misinformed claim, these wines almost never have anything to do with the blending of red and white wines. In fact, it would be more accurate to say that they are created through a combination of red and white wine-making techniques. Wine of this type gets its pink color from a short maceration with the skins -- usually 8-12 hours -- followed by the separation of the juice from the skins, at which time the fermentation process proceeds as it would with white wine. This contact with the skins can, in certain cases, increase the complexity of the wine, but perhaps the most important aspect of the fermentation process is that the wines remain dry. And, in the case of Tavel, bone dry. Made with Grenache Noir, Tavel originates from the town of the same name on the Left bank of the Rhone River. Along with the appellation of Bandol in Provence, Tavel is known for producing some of the best Rosé in the world. Enjoy this wine outdoors as the weather hints at the summer months to come. Recommended food pairing: grilled pork tenderloin.


Tomero Malbec Mendoza 2005 12.75 (057943)

I've never been a fan of the Malbec that originates from the Cahors appellation in the Southwest of France (below Bordeaux). I find most of these wines overly tannic and inky without the reward of fruit that one might expect. But, to resist writing off the grape altogether, I would recommend much of the Malbec from the Mendoza region in Argentina. Formerly a blending grape in Bordeaux, Malbec was introduced to Argentina around 1868 by Michel Pouget, where it produces a softer wine without the overpowering tannins. It does, however, retain its inky hue and offers what wine critics often refer to as "grip." This would be a great way to sample the varietal if you're unfamiliar with it. Not only is it inexpensive, it has also received a favorable rating of 88 from Stephen Tanzer (International Wine Cellar). I particularly like this excerpt from his tasting notes: "Juicy, tightly wound and light on its feet despite hinting at liqueur-like warmth." A failed poet, no doubt. Recommended food pairing: grilled (preferably rare) flank steak.


Sasyr Sangiovese/Sryah IGT 2005 17.95 (068510)

Many of you have, I'm sure, heard the designation "supertuscan." Perhaps some of you wondered precisely what the term meant, what with its grandiose air and all. Well, technically speaking, it is reserved for a group of wines that were first made in and around the early 1980s. They controversially broke with traditional Tuscan wine-making laws in the pursuit of producing finer wine through the introduction of French varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Now days, however, defining which wines make the cut and which don't is a fool's errand. Take, for instance, the wine in question. It could be said that it is one of the many progeny of the Tuscan wine revolution. Although not uber expensive -- like, say, Tignanello or Sassicaia -- it also combines a traditional French varietal, Syrah, with the traditional Tuscan grape Sangiovese. It is for this reason that it is designated an IGT wine. IGT stands for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, and it is used to differentiate these wines from other, more traditional designations (DOC's) like Chianti and Chianti Classico. But, as even a rough translation should discover, it gestures to the fact that the wine should be typical or indicative of the region from which it originates. Originally a mark of low quality wines (as with the French Vin de Pays d'Oc), in today's wine market IGT often means anything but. While there is sometimes a risk in buying IGT wines -- there are, after all, so many on the market with so little accompanying information -- James Suckling's Wine Spectator rating of 88 is indicative of high quality for a relatively low price. With the ample Sangiovese in the blend, this wine should be quite food friendly, particularly with red meats. Recommended food pairing: braised oxtail parpadelle in a tomato-based sauce.

Vintages Selection: Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005

Well, it has been some time since I’ve updated, no doubt resulting in the loss of readers to whom this little apologetic preamble might have mattered. This blog tapered off and ceased to be updated for simple reasons: it was too much work, and I had too much other work. But, in the months that have passed, I found myself wanting to contribute a little here and there, and have now decided that the solution to the problem is to pare down some of the entries. I’ll still wax on about certain wines that I’m particularly taken by, but I’d also like to devote shorter entries to great values. So, for the ten of you out there who will read this – all friends and family, no less – I'll return with an entry on my all-time favorite wine, which is being released in limited quantities May 10th.

Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe
Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2005 67.95 (951475)

I’ve already said so much about Chateauneuf-du-Pape, about the wonderful 2005 vintage, and about this unique and fascinating terroir, but I remain compelled to fawn over the wine in question because, quite simply, I believe it to be one of the best values in fine French wine. While I understand that this may seem strange and that 70 dollars is a whopping amount for a bottle of wine, those who have tried it will know that it is vastly superior to what you get for the same price in Bourdeaux or Burgundy. With wine from those regions, one could spend twice as much and still not come close to the quality level of Vieux Telegraphe. For me, it is the essence of Provence in a bottle.

As has been noted elsewhere on these pages, I am a huge fan of Chateau Beaucastel, another leading wine of the appellation. What makes Beaucastel so enticing is the high presence of Mourvedre, a late-ripening grape with gamey notes. Taking nothing away from Beaucastel, what makes Vieux Telegraphe, is the Grenache. It is, perhaps, the loveliest Grenache-dominated wine anywhere in the world. Grenache is, of course, often derided for its lack of complexity and not thought to be on par with other noble varietals. This is, to some extent, a fair criticism, and the reason that virtually all Chateauneuf is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre. But when one has 65 year-old Grenache vines, it makes sense to show their fruit off a little. As such, Vieux Telelgraphe is usually comprised of about 65% Grenache (with roughly equal parts of the aforementioned Syrah and Mourvedre rounding out the blend). It is this high percentage of Grenache that lends the wine some of the most intense and intoxicating kirsch (cherry) flavors I’ve ever tasted. There is a sweetness to Vieux Telegraphe that speaks to the sun-drenched vineyards of the south of France. This is a wine made with grapes that have reached their maximum ripeness and concentration. This, however, is not so rare that it would make for a special wine on its own. There is a second characteristic of a good Vieux Telegraphe that lies underneath the cherry: stoniness.

I know that I’m repeating myself by celebrating the stoniness of a Chateauneuf yet again, but it is necessary to stress with Vieux Telegraphe because it is really the stoniest wine I’ve tasted. And, for those of you who haven’t read my other entries, I’m not referring to the type of minerality that one might get in a good Riesling; this is a warm stoniness that can draw the drinker back to the landscape from which the wine originated. Upon opening a bottle of 2003 Vieux Telegraphe with my wife, the two of us were momentarily transported back to our honeymoon spent in and around Chateauneuf-du-Pape. As improbable as it might seem, all the smells of the rugged landscape of Provence – particularly garrigue – seem to manage their way into Vieux Telegraphe.

Pairing this wine with food should be relatively straightforward. One must, however, take into consideration its age and evolution. If opening this wine young, it is imperative to aerate (decant) it for at least an hour, preferably two. Although it is not reported to be “closed” at present, giving it ample air would, no doubt, help to rouse some of the underlying complexity. After aerating, two possible pairings in the wine’s youth might be: braised beef dishes (in wine-based sauces) or duck confit (the ample fat balancing the youthful tannins). As the wine ages and softens a bit, I think an ample-sized veal chop would be lovely, but even a spice-rubbed (eg. rosemary, thyme, etc.) roasted chicken would do it justice.

If you’re a buyer of New World wines or primarily Bordeaux and Burgundy, I urge you to buy at least one Vieux Telegraphe. It may change the way you conceive of the Rhone Valley and how you buy wines in general. As a final note, both Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) and James Molesworth (Wine Spectator) rate the 2005 Vieux Telegraph 95 points, obviously within "outstanding" range.

For more information about Domaine de Vieux Telegraphe please consult the following sources:
www.thewinedoctor.com, www.vignoblesbrunier.fr, and Kermit Lynch's Adventures On the Wine Route.

Vintages Selection: Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2006

Despite my best intentions, I neglected to add other selections from the Dec. 8th release before that date. But being the last release before Christmas, the following post should remain relevant for slightly longer than normal. That is, of course, if the items remain in stock! With holiday booze shopping building to a typical frenzy, it is quite important to act quickly on wines that one is interested in. To change things up a bit, I'd like to shift the focus from my beloved French wines to a local wine that offers excellent quality.

















Vintages Selection: Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay 2006 16.95 (#681247)

Although Le Clos Jordanne is all the rage in Ontario right now,* one of its neighbours also makes some stellar Burgundian varietals at significantly lower costs. And, perhaps more importantly, the wine is actually available at many Vintages locations across the GTA. Founded in 1999, Flat Rock Cellars devotion to the Niagara Escarpment's terroir makes it one of the regions leading estates. Set on an excellent plot of land overlooking Lake Ontario (with Toronto in the distance), Flat Rock has plantings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling, the three varietals best suited to our climate and soil composition.

Having recently visited Flat Rock in the fall, I was impressed with all of their wines. Having said that, I was particularly taken with this Chardonnay. Not only is it a great value, its flavour profile is virtually identical to the more expensive "Rusty Shed" reserve version (24.95 at the winery). Despite the fact that I was not sampling the 2006 vintage, my fellow taster and I were hard-pressed to isolate many differences between the respective wines. Now this could have been because we had tasted a great deal of wine that day, but I'd like to think it also indicates that both versions are of superior quality.
















Flat Rock uses a gravity flow system to vinify all their wines, which sounds more complex than it is. Gravity flow wine making eschews the rougher suction of powered pumps for the use of gravity to move the wine throughout the vinification process. Quite simple in theory, but one would do well to recall that the entire winery has to be built to accommodate this practice. Although this is primarily an advantage for the thin-skinned pinot noir grape, I think it demonstrates the commitment to natural and terroir-driven wines, which is always a good thing.

Characterized by rich notes of apple and butter, there is also a toasty aspect to this wine. Unlike many Chardonnays in this price range, however, the oak is not overpowering. Indeed, there is more than ample body to support oak aging here, and it offers balance on the palate. Quite naturally, this Chardonnay pairs well with meaty fish, and salmon in particular. But it will also hold up well to something like pork tenderloin with an apple based reduction/sauce. One could let this cellar for a while, but I'm not sure that the reward would be worth the wait. While there may be slight improvement, I like this as an early drinker. When consumed early, one can take advantage of the wine's freshness and tart characteristics.

* See David Lawrason's article in Toronto Life: http://www.torontolife.com/features/grapes-progress

Vintages Selection: Vieux Donjon 2005, Grand Veneur 2004, and Les Origines 2005

With the November 24th release a thing of the past, it's time to turn our focus to December 8th, a quality-packed release perfectly timed for the holidays. Over the next few days I'll be featuring a number of exciting wines, but to get things started I'd like to return to a region I've already discussed in these pages: Chateauneuf du Pape. While I'm aware that it is undesirable to return to a region over and over again, the Chateauneufs offered on the 8th are simply fantastic.
















Le Vieux Donjon 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape 56.40 (#700922)

Insofar as I've discussed many characteristics of Chateauneuf du Pape's terroir and the flavour profile of its wines in my Beaucastel entry, I'll keep this a bit shorter. Like Beaucastel, Le Vieux Donjon is one of the best wines of the appellation. Better still, the 2005 vintage was superb in Chateauneuf, and many domaines produced their finest offerings in more than five years. While Vieux Donjon (as is the case with many of the better estates) produced phenomenal wine in both 2003 and 2004, if you put stock in the Wine Spectator's view of things, the 2005 is even a bit better than these highly rated bottlings. Indeed, the folks at the Wine Spectator think so highly of this wine that they ranked it 3rd on their list of the top 100 wines of 2007. What is nice about this top 100 list is that it is not based solely on the wine's rating; they also take into account price and availability. And though it is not cheap, at less than 60 dollars, this wine easily rivals bottles twice and three times as much.




















Named after the old summer residence of the popes during the 14th century, Le Vieux Donjon is a traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape. What are the defining characteristics of this traditional approach? The red is dominated by Grenache (75%), and it is aged for 6 months in cement tank which is followed by 12 months in oak foudres. A foudre is an extremely large cask that allows the wine to develop without imparting oaky notes. In addition to this, winemakers Lucien Michel and his wife Marie Jose have not participated in the trend of making a super cuvee. I like this approach in that it demonstrates their commitment to producing a single offering of premium quality wine. Why reserve "special" grapes for a limited release cuvee when they could go into the primary wine?

If there is a downside to this wine, it is that it requires patience. One word used to describe this wine is "backward." Although it would seem as though there is a negative connotation to this term, it in fact refers to the high degree of tannin and structure that defines big wines from good vintages. It is helpful to think about this term in a somewhat literal sense: it is the opposite of "fruit-forward." Despite this, there are underlying red-fruit flavours associated with the high percentage of Grenache, but they are currently overpowered by the tannin. At present the wine is quite closed, but it will start to show off its immense potential in 5 years or so. It has all the structure to develop into a complex mix of cherry, provencal herbs and stones. If you have the money, it would be nice to try one of these with a holiday dinner (think prime rib) and then put a couple away for the long haul. You will not be disappointed!

















Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape 2004 39.00 (#41954) and Cuvee Les Origines 2005 53.95 (#43059)

There are two offerings from Grand Veneur in the December 8th release, the standard bottling from the 2004 vintage and the super cuvee from 2005. They are both excellent wines. Aside from the vintage date, the primary difference between the two wines is that the super cuvee (Les Origines) comes from older vines, sees a higher percentage of Mourvedre (30% vs. 20%), and is aged in new oak barrels. This is a less than traditional approach, but there are now a number of estates experimenting with such bottlings (the most similar being La Nerthe's Cuvee des Cadettes). Built for the long haul, many of these wines require some cellar time before they reveal their true colours. But they are often wonderfully concentrated wines, and this is certainly the case with the 2005 Grand Veneur. Referring to Parker's tasting notes, one finds that despite moderate tannins, this wine is actually quite approachable now. Although he suggests 2-3 years of aging, this is quite different from the Vieux Donjon, and I'm sure this will appeal to many people unwilling to make the commitment to really cellar wines. Significantly, the Parker rating is a 95, which at this price point is nothing short of fantastic.
















At about 20 dollars less, the standard bottling from the 2004 vintage is not giving a whole lot away to the 2005 Les Origines. Made in a more traditional manner, this wine is another lovely example of the great Chateauneuf terroir. Grand Veneur is located in the north of the appellation, and like all the top estates, features stony and windswept vineyards. The proprietor of the domaine is Alain Jaume, and his sons, Sebastian and Christophe, represent the 6th generation of Jaumes making wine in Chateauneuf du Pape. The awareness of such lineages always makes a wine that much more special to me. The thought that a family has been cultivating and caring for the land for so many years reinforces what a wonderful gift wine is and serves to remind us that the French are still the model of respect for the tradition of wine making.















Although this bottling would age for 10+ years, it can absolutely be drunk now, and that's what I'd strongly recommend. Save the other wines of this entry for the cellar; this is one to open now and enjoy with braised beef ribs or other slow-cooked red meat dishes. It has great aromas of raspberry, fig and garrigue, that combination of wild herbs and scrub brush that defines much of the Provencal landscape and the wines of the Southern Rhone. The Parker rating is 91, and though that's lower than the 2005 Les Origines, this is a classic case in which ratings are misleading and somewhat irrelevant. As a wine that doesn't require the same degree of aging, this cuvee offers a different drinking experience, not necessarily an inferior one. I thoroughly enjoy drinking young Chateauneufs (indeed, that's what I most commonly can get my hands on), and prefer not to place such wines in competition with other bottles that demand long-term aging. Having said that, one intriguing experiment would be to buy both offerings from Grand Veneur and try them beside one another. It might even be fun to blind taste them to ascertain which one you prefer (then you can really see if the ratings matter!). Spotting the differences in the two wines would really help the enthusiast to note the subtle differences between two closely related wines.

Vintages Selection: E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003

One of the wines not to be found on the Vintages web listing of the November 24th release that nevertheless deserves special attention is the E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003. This is, however, once again a rather expensive wine. Still, when one knows a little about Cote-Rotie, not only do the prices of the wines from the appellation make sense, it becomes very tempting to throw down the cash for a memorable drinking experience.
















E. Guigal Cote-Rotie Brune et Blonde 2003 81.95 (#352534)

Sometimes the mere translation of the name of a wine is extremely informative, and such is the case with Cote-Rotie: the "roasted slope." As the pictures below illustrate, the vines of Cote-Rotie are planted on some of the steepest slopes of the Rhone Valley. Indeed, all the best wine of the northern Rhone comes from extremely steep vineyards, be it Hermitage, Cornas, or even high quality St. Joseph. There are a variety of reasons for this, all of which demonstrate the importance of terroir. Along with the wines of Burgundy, those of the northern Rhone best express the sense of the place from which they derive. Part of this results from the fact that, as in Burgundy, the authorized varietals are severely restricted. Throughout the northern Rhone, Sryah is permitted for reds and Marsanne, Rousanne and Viognier (which also appears in small amounts in certain red blends) are permitted for whites. The lack of major blending makes it a bit easier to identify the subtle and not so subtle differences from one vineyard to another, which is nothing short of fascinating.





























Above is the "blonde" vineyard and below is the "brune," both of which comprise the pinnacle of Cote-Rotie's terroir. Vintner's will often note the different characteristics each slope gives to its wines. In this case, the wine is a blend of grapes from both slopes. Although they are planted with the same Syrah clone, blending grapes from the two can help to achieve better balance and structure than from a cuvee comprised of grapes from just one. Despite the high price of this wine, these are not the absolute premium grapes of the two slopes. For Guigal's offerings, the best grapes go into the La Ladonne, La Mouline, and La Turque bottlings, all of which are single vineyard expressions. These wines are, however, all $500+ and very rare. The brune and blonde blend gives the enthusiast the chance to sample Cote-Rotie at a price that is at least slightly more realistic.





























Guigal's Cote-Roties are the best known, and for good reason: the recognition of the wine as some of the finest in the world is the result of much of his dedication to endorsing it. And yet, not everyone is a fan of his vinification practices. Unlike much of the wine of the Rhone Valley, Guigal's spends a great deal of time in new oak barrels. This wine, for example, is matured in oak for at least 2 years before being bottled. Not everyone is a fan of such a practice, and many have accused Guigal of making wines for the less traditionally oriented North American audience. Perhaps this is so, but nevertheless his wines are invariably rated highly by all international wine publications. Moreover, the pure strength of a wine like Cote-Rotie seems to demand at least some time in oak. And please rest assured, Guigal's Cote-Rotie tastes nothing like the cheap oak and vanilla bombs that have become so popular with many of those with less developed palettes (yes, I am referring to Yellow Tail here...).
















As far as tasting notes go, Parker has noted that the 2003 is the finest example of this bottling. Some of the characteristics he identifies are "cassis, mocha, espresso, bacon fat, black olives, and underbrush." Many of these flavours and aromas are referred to as masculine, and Cote-Roties are certainly 'big' wines, but like classified growth Bordeaux, they give nothing away in terms of complexity and range. So, yes, it is 90 dollars, but it just might be worth it. Make it a special occasion wine to celebrate with. I would strongly recommend allowing this some cellar time, but if you simply can't wait, make sure to pair it with foods that have ample flavour and fat. For my money, a high quality rib-eye steak would be wonderful, but duck confit or even foie gras would also make great matches. Enjoy!

Vintages Selection: Chateau de Monbazillac 2001

As is becoming clear, I have a soft spot for wines of the Rhone Valley. Yet, for all my love of this region, too great a focus on any one thing is never the best idea when it comes to wine. There are simply too many fabulous wines produced throughout the world that cannot be ignored. And this is true of types of wine as well: while I may always be a lover of dry red wine first and foremost, I now find that the experience of tasting something less familiar can often be equally or even more rewarding. In keeping with this, I'd like to share a little information about another wine from the upcoming November 24th Vintages release.




















Chateau de Monbazillac 2001 23.95 (#31617)

Located on the left bank of the Dordogne river immediately south of Bergerac, Monbazillac is an appellation with a long tradition of making sweet white wine. Although less known than Sauternes and Barsac, the wines of Monbazillac are made in much the same style. Indeed, they are often referred to as 'poor man's' Sauternes. Being a poor man myself, it is nice to have the opportunity to try a wine of this type without forgoing food for the week.















The varietals for this wine are Semillon, Sauvignon, and Muscadelle, the last of which is particularly successful in this region. The most interesting aspect of these wines is not, however, the varietals themselves, but rather what happens to them prior to being picked. Due to the appellation's geographic location, there are often morning mists followed by warm and sunny afternoons throughout autumn. These conditions are perfect for the development of Botrytis cinerea, or noble rot. While this fungus may lead the grapes to look downright disgusting, the resulting wine can be profound. Read a few reviews of Chateau d'Yquem -- the famous wine from Sauternes -- and you will get an idea of just how phenomenal an experience botrytized wine can be.















Although there are a number processes that take place when noble rot affects grapes, the most important are as follows: the grape loses more than half of its water content as it shrivels into something more akin to a raisin, the sugar becomes concentrated, and the phenolics in the grape skins are broken down resulting in the release of the tannins into the juice. There are thus a variety of viticultural strategies that must be employed to extract wine from these severely dehydrated grapes. Due to the fact that not all grapes are affected by noble rot at the same rate, numerous passages through the vineyard must be made to ensure consistency. Once picked, the grapes must also be pressed numerous times to ensure that the little remaining juice can be extracted. Not only that, the fermentation proceeds very slowly: the high sugar levels and the presence of antibiotics like botryticine severely inhibit the yeasts. All this to say, making these wines is an expensive prospect. When one also considers that the whole process can be undermined by uncooperative weather conditions, the fact that botrytized wines are often exorbitantly priced makes a good deal of sense.

















Chateau de Monbezillac, as the name indicates, is the largest producer in the appellation. A gorgeous estate that features a 16th century castle, much about about this producer recalls the better known chateaus in Barsac. And although 2001 was not one of their best vintages, it was by no means a disaster either. More than anything, it represents a great opportunity to sample a special and rare style of wine at a reasonable price. It comes in a 500ml size, which is the perfect amount to enjoy with a selection of strong cheeses, particularly those of the blue variety. It would also pair well with foie gras should you prefer to serve it with a first course. Either way, you're in for a treat.


















As a final note, botrytized wines are known for their ability to age for extremely long periods of time, generally progressing to saturated honey and nut flavours. Although you won't get the 100 some odd years out of this that you would from a d'Yquem, if you have the patience, it would surely reward 15-20 years.

For further information on noble rot, please see Janice Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wine, from which much of this entry is culled.